Pretty Pleased with Peruvian Buses

Before I launch into a description of my first few days in Peru, I feel it is imperative that I warn any/all travelers planning to venture to Loja, Ecuador...Do NOT stay at Las Orquideas Hostal no matter how enticingly cheap it is! I slept nary a wink the one night I was there due to the fact that they lock the front door and don´t issue keys to the guests forcing late-night-revelers to loudly buzzzzzzzzzz for entry. Okay? Consider yourselves forewarned...

I left Loja, Ecuador on Friday, Nov 18, catching the Loja Transportes bus at 7 AM. It is roughly a nine-hour international journey due to the extra time passengers are held up at the Ecuador/Peru border crossing in Macara. I do NOT recommend changing money with those dubious, smiling gentlemen offering you the financial service due to the prevelance of counterfeit Peruvian soles. Especially seeing that there are plentiful banks located close to the bus terminals in Piura, Peru, which will guarantee you an honest transaction.

My first impression of northern, coastal Peru was not altogether positive I must admit for it was immediately apparent that Peruvians are environmentally lagging behind the rest of the world and did not get the memo from Al Gore regarding the best way to care for Mother Earth. In other words? There is a SHIT load of garbage to be seen and smelt along the Pan American Highway! Someone needs to send for Tony Soprano and hire his Waste Management Company STAT so as to deal with this problem. It smelled soooo bad that the young children (who are usually quite fond of foul odors such as farts)seated near me on the bus were plugging their noses to block out the stench! Speaking of buses...


Peruvian buses ROCK!! Yes, yes, I realize how much the Lonely Planet Guidebooks badmouth them, but if we´re comparing lemons (Ecuadorean buses) to oranges (the higher-end Peruvian ones), it ain´t no contest, my friends! But back to my narrative...

I arrived in Piura, Peru, at about 4 PM on Friday the 18th and, once I´d changed money, hailed a taxi to the area near the Plaza de Armas where I managed to secure a single room at the Aruba Hostal (25 soles). Oddly, I loved this hostal for it was QUIET, CHEAP and provided me with an oscillating fan. Aaaaah, how I´ve missed the pleasant, buzzing drone of a fan in order to lull me to sleep zzzzzzzzzzzzzz

My ONE day in Piura was uneventful. I did manage to eat/drink well, firstly at the Matheos Vegetarian Restaurant and then later at the El Margues Tavern located in the swanky Hotel Los Portales, where I enjoyed my first ever Pisco Sour coctail. I do believe it is a mighty stiff drink as I felt the effects of the Pisco liquor with each tentative step I took towards my bed that night.

If I may return to the subject of buses....

Although I´ve only taken ONE long-distance Peruvian bus thus far from Piura to Trujillo (6 hours), I must applaud the Peruvians on their ability to pamper passengers. I traveled on an ITSA bus for 35 soles (roughly $15) and was not only provided with a meal on a tray by an airline BUS stewardess, but was also offered multiple beverages AND shown 2 feature-length Hollywood films (Liam Neeson´s "Unknown" and hubba hubba hunk Ryan Gosling´s "Crazy, Stupid Love"). Granted the aforementioned entertainment was dubbed into Spanish BUT!! English subtitles were politely provided for us gringos. Plus!! The security on these buses was thoroughly reassuring. For example, I was actually finger-printed prior to boarding! Definitely a first for me as I have no criminal priors. Ohhh yes, Peru has pretty much nailed it when it comes to bus transport. Public toilets on the other hand...

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