Tripping the Life Fantastic

Every darn tootin´ place I´ve been to on this backpacking trip thus far has been overrun by four-legged creatures with wagging tails, nasty breath and endless yapping. In fact, in Quito, every home seemed to have its very own guard dog who lived on the rooftop 24/7 and would bark incessantly whenever the wind blew (which meant they practically never stopped yapping thus negating the need for alarm clocks or roosters). But in Lima?!? I was delightfully surprised to encounter MUCHO GATOS!! Meow Mix indeed. First of all we had Janis, the Siamese cat, in temporary residence at Pucllana Lodge whom I mentioned in my previous blog entry. But on Monday (Nov 28) I happened to be walking in Parque Kennedy in the Miraflores District when I spied a congregation of homeless cats being fed beside the church there. I actually did a double-take as I walked past for my eyes could not believe what they were seeing! There were at least 30 cats blanketing the lane and their meowing was music to m...

I must explain what I mean by "sloppy seconds" straight away. You see this is my 2nd visit to Lima (the first being back in 2003) and when I first came here, I was not altogether impressed. I remember feeling on edge and wary of pickpockets at every turn, but now that I'm back? The city feels familiar, nay cozy , like I just slipped on a comfortable pair of loafers. Weird, huh? I have no idea why I feel so much more relaxed unless it's just how much it differs from Quito. In the latter city, I NEVER felt truly safe and was 110% reluctant to pull out my camera in order to take a pic. But in Lima (at least more specifically in Miraflores & Barranco)? I walk around with my camera around my neck and shoot to my heart's content. So I am definitely appreciating my sloppy second helping of this city! So here's the scoop on my visit thus far... My overnight bus from Trujillo arrived in Lima on time practically to the minute at 6:30 AM Friday and I...

Wish I could surf, man. I mean it looks soooo cool to ride the waves, particularly at sunset when you become nothing but a blazing silouhette against the colourful sky. Yep, I wish I could surf. Alas, I pretty much hate being in the water. For the past couple of days I´ve been chilling out in the surfing community of Huanchoco (12m from Trujillo) where the vibe is sweet and and the surf is always UP. There are numerous schools which provide lessons for the novice surfer but I can´t be bothered to learn. I mean, why on earth would I like to become shark bait! It´s quite safe to walk the streets here, even at night(!!), and I´ve managed to go jogging a couple of times with my iPod safely. There´s a vegetarian restaurant run by a Dutch fellow on the coastal road called Otra Cosa which bakes its own brown bread and serves coffee stronger than Starbuck´s. I dined with a Dutch couple I met while touring Chan Chan the first 2 nights as they are staying in town as well. Other th...

I was colorfully surprised by rainbowesque Trujillo as they`ve beautifully restored and brightly painted many Spanish colonial buildings, particularly around the Plaza de Armas, which is an absolute must-see when it`s lit up at night. I spent the night at the delightful Hotel Colonial and apparently was given a discount on account of my charming personality. Ha! Seriously, I have no idea why I was given a better single room rate than another woman I met staying there. I`m sure it had nothing to do with my provacative skintight clothing and bright red lipstick (Anyone who knows me and my proclivity for turtlenecks and conservative dress should realize I`m 100% joking). I would certainly prefer to think it is due to my looks and polite manner but... The hotel has a travel company on the premises to which I availed myself as I wished to visit the 2 major archaelogical sites in the viscinity of Trujillo. A combined tour ticket only cost 40 soles (+ site admission fees) and was done...

Before I launch into a description of my first few days in Peru, I feel it is imperative that I warn any/all travelers planning to venture to Loja, Ecuador...Do NOT stay at Las Orquideas Hostal no matter how enticingly cheap it is! I slept nary a wink the one night I was there due to the fact that they lock the front door and don´t issue keys to the guests forcing late-night-revelers to loudly buzzzzzzzzzz for entry. Okay? Consider yourselves forewarned... I left Loja, Ecuador on Friday, Nov 18, catching the Loja Transportes bus at 7 AM. It is roughly a nine-hour international journey due to the extra time passengers are held up at the Ecuador/Peru border crossing in Macara. I do NOT recommend changing money with those dubious, smiling gentlemen offering you the financial service due to the prevelance of counterfeit Peruvian soles. Especially seeing that there are plentiful banks located close to the bus terminals in Piura, Peru, which will guarantee you an honest transaction...

November 12-17, Hosteria Izhcayluma, Vilcabamba How do I love thee, Hosteria Izhcayluma, let me count the ways... I have seriously been in paradise personified these past 5 nights/4 days! All the things which bring me bliss have been present: friendly frisky cats, plentiful hiking trails, fresh air, coffee that comes from a plant and not a jar, an ooh-la-la spa offering facials (Yes, please pinch & purge my nose of nasty blackheads!), a restaurant that serves so many vegetarian options that my head spun and I automatically belched outloud in appreciation, an incredibly helpful and engaging multi-lingual staff, and perhaps most importantly, cooperative weather! I am loathe to move on but Peru beckons and I have been in Ecuador for nearly six weeks so surely I need to forge onwards? Sigh...But let me tell you a few of the highlights of my time in Vilcabamba. I arrived on Saturday (Nov 12) afternoon at about 2 PM and was immediately struck by the presence of oodles of hippi...

November 4-11, Cuenca As the title suggests, I have been laying low and avoiding the authorities in Cuenca this past week and staying at the La Casa Cuencana Hostal. The proprietress, Marta, is either addicted to "happy pills" or just exuberantly friendly; it's hard to tell but I appreciate her toothy grin every time she sees me. I had to share a room the first night here for $12 with Gareth, an American with family from La Porte, Indiana, just like me! "It's a small world after all" (TM Annoying Walt Disney Theme Park Ride). Gareth was rather gorgeous though and slept bare-chested so...no err complaints here! But the street noise?!!? Ay carumba!!! It was the day after Cuenca's Independence Day so everyone was still in celebratory mode and they carried on carousing till after 4 AM! It's time to face the fact that I'm a light sleeper and should seriously invest in a pair of ear plugs. Stat! On Saturday, I explored the old town and was ple...

Sunday, Oct 30 - Quito to Riobamba Getting out of Quito by bus proved to be a piece of cake. The only hitch was when we arrived in the city of Riobamba at 2:30 PM. I was unceremoniously dumped in what felt like some dusty God forsaken roundabout, NOT a bus terminal. I asked a shopkeeper there if I was truly in Riobamba and he nodded so...Okay then. I hailed a taxi into the center of town and managed to get a room for the unbelievable pirce of $7 per night WITH PRIVATE TOILET. Mind you it is pretty much a dump but with no bugs and hot water, so I'm not complaining. Much. Riobamba, upon initial exploration, seems pretty unremarkable in and of itself, but the nearby Andes mountains make up for its lack of charm. Monday, Oct 31 - Volcan Chimborazo Today was wonderfully surprising for I fortutiously showed up at the Expedictiones Julio Verne climbing office just as a pair of dashing Canadian men were preparing to go on a day hike. I was graciously invited to accompany...